Lake Elsinore, CA

Total after all rebates will be 20641

WARRANTY. Checked freon pressures, checked electrical, checked for error codes. Tightened connections. Found no errors at this time. Unit cooling upon departure.

Performed leak dye search on 15-year-old Goodman condensing unit. Upon my search I started on the outdoor condensing unit to find out the high pressure valve was leaking due a Deteriorated/loose Schrader core. Tightened Schrader cores And applied nylog sealant to threading. After assessing the outdoor unit I proceeded to the evaporator coil in the attic, Found that the evaporator coil is leaking In an unrepairable location. If leak is not fixed R22 refrigerant is consistently leaking out all day long until system becomes flat. Will be writing up options for Tim and having a consultant contact him regarding his options.

Performed AC maintenance on seven-year-old Goodman condensing unit. Upon my meetings I came across a few points of concerns that were addressed with the homeowners. 4 ton Goodman- 1. Found that secondary motor control was weak on both hermetic and fan side terminals 2. High-voltage relay Contained burned wires and melted connections on the incoming power from the disconnect. It was caused due to the secondary motor control not supplying proper power 3. Compressor pulling incredibly high amps 4. Fan motor is also over ramping at 2.0 5. Found that compressor on start up is pulling over rated amperage Than rated on data plate. 5. Disconnect power did not have any type of surge protection. Recommendations- 1. secondary motor controls need to be swapped out to ensure proper efficiency and operation of system 2. High voltage really needs to be replaced due to melted connections 3. Compressor starter kit added to reduce start up amps 4. Condenser fan motor replacement to meet proper amperag

Performed AC maintenance on six-year-old two system carrier condensing unit. Upon my man is I came across a few points and concerns that were addressed with Ms. Rodriguez. Left wing of home 1.5 ton Carrier- 1. Found the condenser fan motor was leaking oil from bearing and shaft. This was causing higher amperage pull due to friction 2. Duel secondary motor control becoming weak on fan side terminal 3. High voltage relay showing signs of pitting and burn marks on contact points 4. Condenser coil very dirty and covered in hair chemically cleaned off coils 5. Compressor pulling slightly high amps will be monitored Right wing of home 4 ton carrier- 1. Found condenser fan motor leaking oil from bearing and shaft as well 2. Dual secondary motor control also weak on fan and compressor side terminals 3. Condenser fan motor pulling higher amperage than needed due to oil leakage 4. High voltage relay also displaying signs of pitting and burn mark Heavily at about 85% Filters and Home need to be

Arrived on site to perform spring tune up on a 2005 Bryant. Condenser located in back yard. Furnace and evaporator coil located in attic. Like stated no issues as she just moved in 6 months ago. But would like ducting looked at as one room downstairs is not as good air flow as the the other rooms. Advised would be inspecting both indoor and out door units. Washed condenser inside and out. Inspected all electrical compartment and components. Checked fan motor and compressor and amps drawls. Advised the summary of findings are as followed. 1. 2005 Bryan condenser. Original to home. 2. Washed condenser inside and out. Unit really dirty. 3. Primary starter control was good. 4. Secondary motor control was good and in range. Just is starting to rust up a bit. 5. Fan motor has slight oil coming from motor. Run Amp drawls are pulling 1.3 and motor max rated for 1.4 and is reason why it’s leaking oil from working hard. 6. Compressor start up amps are high as it’s starting up at 11t5 a

Installation of a 20 SEER Variable Speed XC20, Variable Speed SL280NV

Performed AC maintenance on 2 14 year old York systems. Systems are both operational. Homeowner did mention that his buddy and him replaced the condenser fan motor and the capacitor on the downstairs system last week and system has been working fine. He is going to be selling the home soon. Cycled systems for cooling. Checked outdoor units electrical and system components. Condenser fan motor and capacitor on downstairs system are new. Downstairs primary motor control is starting to hum from low voltage coil. Downstairs compressor hard start kit is within range. Amp draws on downstairs compressor are high, but within Range. Upstairs condenser fan motor is over amping, pulling more power than it is designed for. Secondary motor control is in Range. Primary motor control is in good condition. Compressor amp draws are also slightly high but still in range. Pulled off condenser fan motors from units and thoroughly washed out condenser coils inside and out. Refrigerant levels are in range

Performed AC maintenance on 2006 Rheem condensing unit. Upon my maintenance I came across a few points of concerns that were addressed Rheem condenser- 1. Found the compressor saver kit was weak and no longer supporting compressor on start up 2. Starter showing signs of pitting and burn marks on contact points this can lead to failure on start up in future. 3. System low on R22 Refrigerant, this refrigerant was completely phased out as of January 1, 2020. 4. Compressor pulling 14 amps, this high Amperage pull can only increase as the years go on and as system wear and tear occurs. 5. Condenser coil was considerably dirty this had reduced airflow 6. 1 inch filters need to be swapped out every 1 to 3 months 7. Evaporator coil in attic had no secondary float switch to prevent flooding

LOWES PTU. Found system operational upon arrival. Replaced 2 filters with cut to fit 20x30x1 and 20x20x1. Blower clean. Coil clean. Duct new. Insulation great. Washed condenser, coil. Amps draw ok on both condenser motor and compressor. Bearings ok. Cap ok. Contactor ok. Freon ok. Unit is less than 1 year old and in brand new condition. Still under warranty with builder. Unit operational upon departure.

Performed AC diagnostic on 2005 York condensing unit. Upon my diagnostic came across a few points or concerns 1. Found that all indoor ductwork was not insulated and also had asbestos insulation. No insulation has caused all the ductwork to rust out due to condensation. 2. Dust in debris has built up within the indoor blower cabinet due to no filter in place 3. System contains a R 22 refrigerant leak due to past companies charging up system at least twice already and Injected a sealant. 4. System has leaked out R22 leak Once again but is slightly low Recommendation- 1. Find leak and repair in charge up with R22 2. System replacement options

Quality control check

Tested cooling equipment and measured temperature splits. Replaced filter. Tested thermostat. Cleaned outdoor condenser coil and compressor compartment. Tested electrical components including battery and starter. Measured motor amp draws. Checked fuses.

Arrived on site to diagnose a no air flow 2005 York system. Condenser located in back yard. Furnace and evaporator coil located in attic. Client stated about a month ago fan did not operate. But since they use a house fan a lot more they have not been using Ac. Inspected indoor unit. Found system to have had work done as another company came out and added relays for a circulation mode. Found relay For circulation was cutting 24 voltage circuit board for blower motor. As Condenser would turn on but not the blower Motor. Advise I would remove and by pass relay and circulation relay. Client is okay with doing so. Now I am getting 24v for fan motor but blower would still not turn on. Jumped it directly at circuit board and still would not send signal over tot turn on. Circuit would not click over lowing motor to turn on. Advised client circuit is bad and not send out demands for blower to turn on even now that circuit board is receiving 24v to all terminals but not sending demands. Advise

Performed diagnostic on system and confirmed primary Drainline clog.

PTU/LOWES. Found system operational upon arrival. Customer states unit shuts off when it gets hot. Explained to customer that tune up does not solve this issue. Customer stated she knows unit needs to be replaced but she is not ready now and she is planning to do it after she remodels the house. Her timeline for this project is 3-4 years. Washed condenser unit and checked refrigerant pressures. Freon levels look ok but they jump around a lot. This could be caused from cross contamination of refrigerants. If the refrigerant being used is not the one designed from the manufacture, there is a loss in capacity at high temperatures. Motor controls ok. Customer states home warranty replaced the motor and the motor controls. High voltage line switch is original and showing burning and pitting. Replaced 14x24x1 filter with cut to fit filter. Unit operational upon departure. Customer knows unit needs replacement and knows todays visit doesn’t repair her current issues with the unit.

PTU/LOWES. Found system operational upon arrival. Customer had unit installed 2 years ago by HOME DEPOT. Washed condenser coil on LENNOX MINI SPLIT. Washed washable filters. Checked refrigerant charge. Checked electrical. Unit running normal at this time. Customer also signed up for one year maintenance agreement. PLEASE MAIL INVOICE.

NO COOL. Found system operational upon arrival. Customer stated outside unit doesn’t run. Checked outdoor unit and found running. Checked pressures and electrical. Checked furnace and filter. Found 100% plugged filter. Recommend esm. Unit operational upon arrival.

Client reports outdoor unit doesn't work. Made a loud noise before failure. Findings: (1) Found the system not to be recieving 240v from the disconnect. (2) The disconnect is receiving 240v from the main panel. (3) Checked the pullable disconnect's contacts. The contacts weren't making contact with the high voltage line. (4) Inside the disconnect there are noticeable melting marks in the plastic. No burn marks found. (5) Adjusted the contacts on both sides and finally was able to achieve 240v to the condenser. (6) The unit came on. Tested the parts in the system. (7) The condenser fan motor is beginning to over amp during operation. It is rated for 1.4 amps and it is currently using 1.42 amps. Once it is over amping by 10% of the rated value then issues will begin to occur. It would be wise to proactively take of the motor before failure occurs. (8) The battery cap is operating within manufacturer specifications [(-1%) + (-4%)]. Once the fan side is over 5% then this needs to be ch

Performed AC diagnostic on 15-year-old York condensing unit. Upon my diagnostic I found that the system was operational and cooling although was experiencing intermittent failure. Measured compressor amperage and was pulling at exactly 18.30 Amps which is incredibly high considering the max rated amps is 19. This can result in a high energy bill and thermal overload occurring within compressor which will cause a compressor to lock out for a certain period of time until it cools off and then will work for a short period of time, Ultimately till it happens again, This is a sign that the compressor is on borrowed time and could fail completely. The condenser fan motor was also leaking oil from the bearing which can lead to fan motor failure or for it to lock up and overheat this is responsible for cooling the compressor. Measured refrigerant pressures and checked out all electrical and all seem fine although system does contain R22 refrigerant which was completely phased out January 1, 20

Performed diagnostic on 18 year old system. Tenants state that system is not cooling as it should. Also, the downstairs gets extremely hotter than the upstairs and would like us to look at that. System was in cool Mode upon arrival. Indoor temperature was 79 degrees, set point on thermostat was 75 degrees. Took temperatures, System is only producing 10 degree temp split. Checked outdoor unit electrical and system components. Compressor is overamping, which means it is working a lot harder than it should. This usually means the compressor is basically on its last leg. Condenser fan motor is overamping, and is leaking oil. Took refrigerant levels, found refrigerant levels to be extremely high and extremely off of what is recommended. Refrigerant was either changed out for something different, or it was cross contaminated at some point. This could actually be the reason compressor is working harder than it should. Indoor furnace and ductwork is also in very poor condition. Ductwork has s

Performed AC diagnostic on 2012 condensing unit. Upon my diagnostic system was operational and cooling although secondary float switch was filled with water and intermittently tripping and turning off systems. I then began to Vacuum all water out of lines and blew PVC lines out with nitrogen. After clearing PVC lines I then primed The lines to then find out that the primary drain pan is cracked due to water flowing in through the heat exchanger on to the indoor blower motor, and into components within the burners. Due to a cracked pan this will have to be replaced to prevent further water leakage. This seems to have been going on for a while now from the Water stains on the wall and inside of the return cabinet below. If system is ran due to water leakage this can short circuit and damage other electrical equipment and anything in it surrounding. Recommend a drain pan is replaced or entire evaporator coil that will come with five year warranty.

Upon arrival performed diagnostic. Found compressor to be pulling 37.18 amperages. Added hardstart kit to lower amperages, after kit installed compressor pulling 14.09 amps off start. Noise levels went down. Performed maintenance washed out complete system. Replaced power distributor as old one was pitted and burned at contacts. Amperages are in very good condition. Replaced 20x30x1 & 20x20x1.

Upon arrival performed diagnostic. Found compressor to be pulling 37.18 amperages. Added hardstart kit to lower amperages, after kit installed compressor pulling 14.09 amps off start. Noise levels went down. Performed maintenance washed out complete system. Replaced power distributor as old one was pitted and burned at contacts. Amperages are in very good condition. Replaced 20x30x1 & 20x20x1.

Upon arrival performed diagnostic. Found compressor to be pulling 37.18 amperages. Added hardstart kit to lower amperages, after kit installed compressor pulling 14.09 amps off start. Noise levels went down. Performed maintenance washed out complete system. Replaced power distributor as old one was pitted and burned at contacts. Amperages are in very good condition. Replaced 20x30x1 & 20x20x1.